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Mounting the Mill

First off I cut a couple of pieces of timber to rase the Mill up so that I don’t hit my knuckles on the bench every time I try to use the Y axis, they will also provide clearance for the stepper motor once that is installed.

Suitable 10mm holes were drilled in the raising blocks and the bench and then the mill was secured with M8 coach bolts.

The bed was levelled with my engineers level, as with the lathe previously, although some much thicker shims were required on the right hand side.

These shims came with some furniture we purchased a while back, but never used the shims. This type of break-off shim is also available quite cheaply in most hardware stores.

I decided to start mounting the linear scales to the various axes on my mini mill, I checked the drill size for tapping M3 and this came out to be 2.5mm.

Having marked the first hole location and centre punched it, I proceeded to drill into the cast iron base using a battery powered hand drill taking care not to apply too much pressure that would cause the drill to snap.

Next I decided to try rigid tapping using the M3 tap in the drill chuck, unfortunately the tap was cheap rubbish and whilst it did eventually shear off, the attempt at tapping the cast iron had also stripped the cutting threads from the tap!

I had more joy on this and the other M3 holes, partly because they were all through holes, using a stainless steel M3 machine screw as a tap, backing out regularly and blowing out the dust with an air line.

The Z axis linear slide was attached in the same way by drilling and tapping the left side of the column. I want to use the right hand side for the Z axis ballscrew.

I cut about an inch and a half off the linear slide for the X axis so that once mounted it is the same width as the table.

I will lose a few mm of Y travel with this linear slide in place, because the sliding part will hit the column support, but that is not the end of the world.

Many people have expressed their dislike of the Z axis torsion arm, it works reasonably well when wound up, when the head is near the table, but provides next to no support at the top end of the Z travel as there is no tension on the spring.

Grizzly apparently used to supply their version of this mill with an air spring, and LittleMachineShop sell an equivalent conversion kit, however I am not a big fan of the way it has been implemented with the gas spring sticking out of the top of the column.

I decided I wanted mine to be on the same side as the linear slide and still potentially allow the column to tilt (not that I am ever likely to use this functionality).
My air spring was bought on Ebay for £12.92 with free shipping and requires 15kg (33lbs) force to compress, which is the same as the LittleMachineShop version.
I decided to reuse the lowest mounting points for the Z scale I previously removed and re-drilled this with a 6.8mm drill (tapping size for M8), I then proceeded to shear a tungsten steel M8 tap in this hole with yet another attempt at rigid tapping.
Fortunately I was able to twist out the tap without having to try using an “eazy-out“. The main reason it sheared was because after the initial hole in the column has been tapped, it was only trying to cut a thread on one side of the column with no support on the other.
Having tapped this hole I mounted the air spring and worked out the best position for the top mount.
I drilled the hole in the head casting and tapped this using the broken tap in the drill chuck.
In order to ensure that the body of the air spring did not foul on the lower mount of the Z axis linear slide, I used a couple of M8 nuts to lock the thread of the air spring mounts in place.
Air spring installed.
The Z axis is now smooth to operate with even pressure throughout the entire range of travel and will stay at pretty much any position without the need to lock the axis (not that I would try any machining like this).

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