{"id":12,"date":"2015-09-24T18:29:00","date_gmt":"2015-09-24T17:29:00","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2023-08-18T12:30:59","modified_gmt":"2023-08-18T11:30:59","slug":"cheap-diy-icsp-boards-for-attiny-and","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/2015\/09\/cheap-diy-icsp-boards-for-attiny-and.html","title":{"rendered":"Cheap DIY ICSP Boards for ATtiny and ATmega MCs"},"content":{"rendered":"

I recently make a couple of breakout boards for USB connections to use on a breadboard, these are just a male and a female type A USB connector and some header pins soldered to some strip-board.<\/p>\n

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Rear<\/p>\n

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One thing that irks me, when I am prototyping a new circuit, is that when I need to program the micro-controller, this usually means wiring up the ICSP<\/a> from scratch on a breadboard each time and usually all my breadboard space is used up by some other project.<\/p>\n

Yes, you can make use of an Arduino<\/a> board and simply plug an ATmega328P<\/a> chip in and blast that directly, but I am often making use of ATtiny<\/a>\u00a0AVR chips and again don’t really want to be tying up a board simply to upload some code to a chip.<\/p>\n

There are a few options available for sale, this one is particularly good:<\/p>\n

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It is available from Inside Gadgets<\/a> for $4.50 + $3.00 P&P (\u00a34.80) as a bare board with the SMD parts pre-soldered.<\/p>\n

However being a cheapskate I decided to make my own using some strip board and some pin headers.<\/p>\n

All that is really needed for each chip are the 6 pins used by the\u00a0ICSP<\/a>\u00a0– VCC, GND, RST, MOSI, MISO and SCK, unfortunately each chip locates these pins in different places, so I decided on one board per chip type and a standard header to connect to a programmer.<\/p>\n

Here is the various layouts I have done so far:<\/p>\n

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ATtiny25\/45\/85<\/a> DIP 8 chips<\/p>\n

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ATtiny24\/44\/84<\/a> DIP 14 chips<\/p>\n

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ATtiny2313\/2314<\/a> DIP 20 chips<\/p>\n

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ATmega48\/88\/168\/328P<\/a> DIP 28 chips<\/p>\n

First I marked up a sheet of strip board, (the same one I cut the USB headers from)<\/p>\n

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I cut out the boards and cut the relevant traces<\/p>\n

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I then soldered the pin headers and lengths of copper wire for the jumpers<\/p>\n

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rear view<\/p>\n

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The connector is simply 6 DuPont female-female wires with one end in a 1×6 connector block and the other end in a 2×5 connector block wired as for an ISP programmer<\/p>\n

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I can now use any of these boards as a stand-alone programming setup with either of my main ISP programmers.<\/p>\n

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I simply plug the 2×5 connector into the ISP and the 1×6 connector into the appropriate board.<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
I may yet make up a board for ATmega164\/324\/644\/1284P<\/a> DIP 40 chips, as I regularly use these in my 3D Printers.<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Total cost for the whole project is probably less than \u00a30.50 ($0.75).<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I recently make a couple of breakout boards for USB connections to use on a breadboard, these are just a male and a female type A USB connector and some header pins soldered to some strip-board. Rear One thing that irks me, when I am prototyping a new circuit, is that when I need to…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":60,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorised"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=12"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":178,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12\/revisions\/178"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/60"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=12"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=12"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/electronics\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=12"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}