![\"\"](\"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2020\/04\/Laser-Skins15.jpg\")
<\/a><\/div>\nThe Arduino screen will have a cover\/surround that will hide the mounting screws.<\/span><\/p>\n I am not entirely sure how the DSP is supposed to be mounted, but based on the supplied mounting hardware the picture below shows what I believe to be something along the right lines.<\/p>\n The piece of plywood is to protect the Dibond from the screws, the front edge has 3 tabs that allow the edge to slot into the 3mm Dibond.<\/p>\n I then re-attached the right side panel for a more complete corner shot.<\/p>\n My rear panel design differs only slightly from the skins plan mainly because of the air solenoid.<\/p>\n My version pushed the water inlet and outlet holes to the right, plus I have allowed for more mounting holes on the I\/O panel.<\/p>\n The duct I am using is part of a kit for a tumble dryer exhaust extraction that I never used, so this is another free part, this duct is just under 100mm in diameter and I will also use the hose that came with the kit to attach to my bilge blower.<\/p>\n To cut the hole for the duct, I made use of my Draper adjustable radius hole cutter (#59470)<\/a>, this can cut holes from 30-163mm in diameter in a variety of materials up to 45mm thick (if drilled from both sides) and aluminium or brass up to 1mm thick.<\/p>\n There is a spring between the cowl and the drill that allows you to press slowly into whatever you are cutting and the cowl keeps the cutter perpendicular to the surface.<\/p>\n The cowl is extremely useful when cutting holes in ceilings as it collects all of the dust that would otherwise fall on you.<\/p>\n This image shows the cut part way through but with the cowl and drill removed.<\/p>\n The finished hole with markings for the fixing holes.<\/p>\n For the I\/O cutout, I first drilled the corners that have a 15mm radius with a 30mm forstner bit<\/p>\n then joined up the holes using a Stanley knife and drilled the 3mm mounting holes for the I\/O plate.<\/p>\n Next I drilled the holes for the water and air hoses, enlarged them to 16mm and then turned them into slots with a handsaw.<\/p>\n Here is the finished back plate with the duct attached and showing the air inlet and water barbs, the bracket assembly for these is attached to a spare piece of 20x20mm profile to check everything fits.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/a><\/div>\n