{"id":44,"date":"2012-03-09T16:05:00","date_gmt":"2012-03-09T16:05:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/2012\/03\/09\/firmware-and-making-fumes\/"},"modified":"2012-03-09T16:05:00","modified_gmt":"2012-03-09T16:05:00","slug":"firmware-and-making-fumes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/2012\/03\/firmware-and-making-fumes.html","title":{"rendered":"Firmware and Making Fumes"},"content":{"rendered":"

I was browsing through the new items on Thingiverse<\/a> when I found an item that made use of a screen and referenced a different firmware – Marlin<\/a>.<\/p>\n

I had a quick read and thought it would be worth a try, cloned the github<\/a> repository, downloaded yet another version of Arduino<\/a> (0.22), I now have 4 different versions installed!<\/p>\n

Adjusted the configuration.h file and compiled – first stumbling block, seems a fair bit more configuration is required, not exactly an out of the box solution!<\/p>\n

Some more tweaking of the various pin header files later and we have something that will at least compile.<\/p>\n

The preferred serial speed is 250000, so I updated my other bluetooth module to the nearest approximation of 230400 and adjust the Marlin<\/a> config accordingly, communications work seamlessly.<\/p>\n

I was having a closer look at the pins intended for use with the LCD and it would appear that since this code was originally written for use on an Ultimaker<\/a>, or Arduino Mega<\/a> based Ramps<\/a> board, where there are loads of I\/O pins to spare, I was going to need to define some alternatives for me to be able to use the available pins on the sanguinololu<\/a> board that I am using.<\/p>\n

There are just about enough available – I need 6 pins for the LCD, 1 for the SD card, 3 for the encoder, and one for the beeper – there are 10 available, so I will have to forgo the beeper.<\/p>\n

Pin definitions as assigned in Sd2PinMap.h for available pins as I have chosen to use them are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Physical Pin #<\/th>\nPin Name<\/th>\nAssigned Pin #<\/th>\nUse<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n
40<\/td>\nA0<\/td>\n31<\/td>\nSD card SS<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
39<\/td>\nA1<\/td>\n30<\/td>\nEncoder 1<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
38<\/td>\nA2<\/td>\n29<\/td>\nLCD RS<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
37<\/td>\nA3<\/td>\n28<\/td>\nLCD EN<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
36<\/td>\nA4<\/td>\n27<\/td>\nLCD D4<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
5<\/td>\nB4<\/td>\n4<\/td>\nLCD D7<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
22<\/td>\nC0<\/td>\n16<\/td>\nEncoder C<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
23<\/td>\nC1<\/td>\n17<\/td>\nEncoder 2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
16<\/td>\nD2<\/td>\n10<\/td>\nLCD D5<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
17<\/td>\nD3<\/td>\n11<\/td>\nLCD D6<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Some of these pins are labelled differently on the sanguinololu<\/a> board: B4 is shown as D12, C0 as D16, C1 as D17, D2 as D10 and D3 as D11, these can all be determined by looking at the Extension Header section of the sanguinololu schematic<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Having spent enough time playing on the breadboard, I decided it was high time I actually soldered up the board.<\/p>\n

I have another ATmega644p chip, so the one I have been testing is still on the breadboard.<\/p>\n

I followed the instructions on the Reprap Wiki<\/a> regarding what order to install the components, but left out all of the ones associated with the FTDI chip.<\/p>\n

Looks like my Soldering skills aren’t too rusty after all.<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n
Had a few issues soldering the stepstick<\/a> drivers, solder did not want to stick to the board, or flow down the pins. A liberal application of flux soon sorted that out though along with a load more smoke. <\/div>\n
<\/a><\/div>\n
Finished sanguinololu<\/a> board with an ATmega644p in place and stepstick<\/a> drivers installed. <\/div>\n
<\/a><\/div>\n
Hooked it up to my USBasp programmer via the 6 pin ISP header and burnt the bootloader, then attached my serial programmer to the 6 pin TTL interface and loaded the Marlin<\/a> software.<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Replaced the programmer with a bluetooth module and then connected via PrintRun – we can see the board via bluetooth.<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
You may also notice I have added some legs to the circuit board, these are from my huge stock of spare screws and standoffs from numerous scrapped PCs.<\/div>\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I was browsing through the new items on Thingiverse when I found an item that made use of a screen and referenced a different firmware – Marlin. I had a quick read and thought it would be worth a try, cloned the github repository, downloaded yet another version of Arduino (0.22), I now have 4…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-44","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorised"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/44","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=44"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/44\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=44"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=44"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.hslracing.com\/3dprinters\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=44"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}